The Saint Thomas vineyard of Mád has a cultic role in the current Tokaj landscape, as it produces the top dry wine of the icon producer István Szepsy. His wines present the Tokaj vineyards in a consistent way, reproducing a certain typicity every vintage. Describing St Thomas has eluded me a few times before, in this post I attempt to tackle its unique, but elusive flavour profile.
There are other producers sourcing both dry and sweet wines from this plot, and it is easy to recognize some typical notes. This experience confirmed for me that the notion of terroir does exist, as cross-producer vineyard typicity presents itself scarcely to me. It also embarked me on a road to discover more vineyards of Tokaj and the world. I may recommend the dry wines of the completely new Pelle Winery for comparison, both the Szent Tamás and the domain furmint show the same flavours to me. The domain wine is also sourced 80-90% from the same plot, but the actual clone is different. I need to recheck the Royal Tokaji Szt Tamás Furmint as it interferes with my current understanding. Unfortunately, I have missed most sweet wines from this vineyard yet.
Ripe apples and pear on the nose for furmint, some sweetish-vegetal notes, namely kohlrabi (as in slightly-caramelized-kohlrabi) and perhaps a bit of raddish for the vinyard of Saint Thomas, appearing consistently from vintage to vintage. Pretty big and round in the mouth, thick, but not excessive on alcohol and creaminess. Mostly apple on the palate. Slightly tannic. Better structure (and probably lower alcohol?) than the 2007 vintage, but still pretty ripe material, and I expected a notch more acidity. Still, it is well composed, no diverging parts, young and direct. Less complexity & more St Thomas. I like it more than the previous vintage, but I have no clue how it will age. Will last at least 5-10 years, that is pretty sure, but there is no need to wait. 91 points for the moment, should climb higher later.